Date: 24th August 2014
I went down for a quick evening session < 90 min withtheintention of focusing on technique. Warm up felt fairly weak did some easy problems to V4. I took three attempts at one of teh V4's after missing a foothold and a handhold. I had difficulty with the balance needed to move to a crimp on the slab.
From there I worked a V6 to completion. A 15 deg overhanging route, sit start to two good slopers followed by a series of decent crimps to a long move to the lip.It probably took in the region of 15 attempts. Most of which involved falling off the last move. When I first attempted the problem I found the second move hard. Holding the swing on a move to a good pinch/sloper with slippery feet. Once I figured out an improved body position, bringing my hips closer under my center of gravity and figuring out where to hold the sloper the move became easy. The last move, a rock over from a right hand crimp, eluded me for multiple efforts until it was pointed out that I had not moved my left hand up after the hard move to the crimp. Once I moved the left hand up, I finsihed the problem easily.
This was a good example to me of a problem that felt really hard on first attempt becoming easy by the end. Not through gains in strength but by actively thinking and exploring the problem. It's something I need to do more of at every grade I climb.
- Weight: ~187 lbs
- Body Fat: ~ 12%